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发布于 2022-05-19 19:53

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前几日,二嫂在家里炸了一些油饼和麻花,顺便给我带了些,说是让我尝尝鲜。看着金灿灿、透着香气的油饼、麻花,我的思绪回到二十世纪七十年代。

我们家孩子有三男三女,很吉祥的比例和人数,上有父母双亲、爷爷、曾祖母,是个十口之家,即使在二十世纪七十年代的中国农村,我们家也属于大家庭。

在农村,人口多分两种情况,要么是人多力量大、劳动力多,能帮助家庭挣工分;要么是人多嘴多支出多,如果孩子年龄太小,不但不能帮家里挣到工分,要靠救济粮。我们家就属于人多嘴多支出多,是等米下锅的家庭。

在我的记忆里,吃饭问题一直是我们这个十口之家的头等大事。母亲不仅参加了生产队的集体劳动,而且承担着全家人的吃喝大事,那时没有钢磨,只有石磨,我记得母亲每隔两三天就要凌晨四点左右起来去磨面。由于我们家的石磨小,一早晨磨不了多少麦子,母亲常常要在四婶家的大石磨上磨面。特别是冬天,天气寒冷,黑灯瞎火,全靠一盏马灯和一堆柴火照明取暖,那时虽然我的年龄小,但是每当母亲要磨面时,我都会起来陪着母亲,做些力所能及的活。所以,麻花、油饼在我的记忆里,不仅仅是食物那么简单的事。

油饼、麻花是年味。那时在农村,每到年关,不管有钱没钱,每个家庭都会炸一些油饼、麻花,每到这时,村子里的家家户户都会飘出一股麻花的香味,孩子们就知道,年来了。

每到炸油饼时,母亲会早早地把我们支开,不许我们在锅前乱跑乱叫。母亲会选择一个小一点的锅,用石块在土炕的炕洞口支起炉灶,烟被炕洞吸进去,从烟囱里面排出来。孩子们齐刷刷地趴在炕沿边,焦急地等待着吃第一锅油饼,没有被吸进炕洞的烟飘起来,飘到眼睛里,瞬间眼泪就流出来了,即使这样,我们还是不愿挪开,只为能吃上刚出锅的油饼。那软软油油的油饼,冒着热气,香味直抵胃里。母亲总要在刚出锅后先端一碗给孩子们吃,等到孩子们吃好了,困了,母亲还在煤油灯下忙碌着。


今日分享


太阳从大玻璃窗射进来,照在大白纸墙上,照在三个抽屉的桌子上,照在我的小床上。


我醒了,仍然躺在床上,看着阳光下飞扬的许多小灰尘。宋太太来擦窗台和桌子。随着羽毛掸子的舞动,阳光下的灰尘增多,舞蹈变得更加生动。我赶紧把被子拉起来遮住脸,生怕灰尘呛得我咳嗽。


宋妈的鸡毛掸子来掸我的小床。她把小床上的所有棱角都刷了一遍。掸子碰到床栏杆发出嘎嘎声。我想骂她,但她先说:


“睡得不够!”说完,她把我的被子掀开。我穿着天鹅绒外套和裤子的全身暴露在被子外面,立刻打了两个喷嚏。她强迫我起床给我穿衣服。棉袄和斜纹印花长裤都是新做的;这条棉裤管真可笑。你可以把它竖起来,知道棉花有多厚。


妈妈正坐在炉边梳头,俯身。她脖子后面有很多头发。她用了一个炉子。炉子上有一瓶玫瑰油。天气很冷,油冻结了。她总是要把它放在炉子上融化。

窗外很亮。干树枝上有几只怕冷的鸟。我在想,这棵树什么时候会长满叶子?这是我们在北京的第一个冬天。


妈妈不会说北京话。她在告诉宋妈妈今天要买什么。“妈妈,我一磅猪肉都不买。”她说:“买一公斤漏水的房租,不要回去太多。”


桥一天接一天的开通。那时,他不必像这样等待。谁知道呢?道路的前进从来没有车辆的增加那么快。


After combing her hair, Song Ma wiped it on my hair with her oily hand and combed two braids for me. I saw that song's mother was going out with a basket, so she quickly shouted to her:


"Song Ma, I'll go shopping with you."


Song Ma said, "are you not afraid of the lunatics in Huinan hall?"


Song's mother is from Shunyi County. She can't speak Beijing dialect well. She says "Huinan Pavilion", her mother says "Huiwa Pavilion", her father says "fei'an Pavilion". I say "Hui'an Pavilion" with the children in the alley. I don't know which one is right.


Why should I be afraid of the lunatics in Hui'an hall? She smiled at me yesterday! Her smile was really interesting. If my mother hadn't held my hand tightly, I would have gone to see her and talked to her.


Huian hall is in the front of our alley. Up the three stone steps, there are two big black doors recessed. There is a plaque on the door. When I passed by, my father taught me to read: "fei'an hall". Dad said that all the students living inside were from "fei'an". They studied in the university like their uncle.


"Also at Peking University?" I asked Dad.


"There are many universities in Beijing, including Tsinghua University and Yanjing University!"


"Can you go to fei'an - no, play with your uncles in Hui'an hall?"


"Well done! Well done!" I know that no matter what I ask, my father will eventually refuse me with this Hakka sentence. I think one day I will step up those three steps and enter the dark gate.



       

       

was the possession of this tame viper that enabled the child of eight—this was Borrow’s age at the time—to impress the gypsies that he met soon afterwards, and particularly the boy Ambrose Smith, whom Borrow introduced to the world in Lavengro as Jasper Petulengro.  Borrow’s frequent meetings with Petulengro are no doubt many of them mythical38.  He was an imaginative writer, but Petulengro was a very real person, who lived the usual roving gypsy life.  There is no reason to assume otherwise than that Borrow did actually meet him p. 29at Norman Cross when he was eight years old, and Ambrose a year younger, and not thirteen as Borrow states.  In the original manuscript of Lavengro in my possession, “Ambrose” is given instead of “Jasper,” and the name was altered as an afterthought.  It is of course possible that Borrow did not actually meet Jasper until his arrival in Norwich, for in the first half of the nineteenth century various gypsy families were in the habit of assembling their carts and staking their tents on the heights above Norwich, known as Mousehold Heath, that glorious tract of country that has been rendered memorable39 in history by the tragic40 life of Kett the tanner, and has been immortalised in painting by Turner and Crome.  Here were assembled the Smiths and Hernes and Boswells, names familiar to every student of gypsy lore41.  Jasper Petulengro, as Borrow calls him, or Ambrose Smith, to give him his real name, was the son of Fāden Smith, and his name of Ambrose was


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