棉布环保袋真的环保吗? | 纽约时报
发布于 2021-09-15 07:08
Cotton bags have become a means for brands, retailers and supermarkets to telegraph a planet-friendly mind-set — or, at least, to show that the companies are aware of the overuse of plastic in packaging. (There was a brief lull in cotton tote use during the pandemic, when there were fears that reusable bags could harbor the virus, but they are now fully back in force.)
环保袋已成为品牌、零售商和超市传达对地球友好的态度的一种手段——或者，至少要表明这些公司意识到了塑料在包装中的过度使用。（在大流行期间，棉布环保袋曾一度被暂停使用，当时人们担心可重复使用的袋子可能留存病毒，但现在它们已完全恢复使用。）
“There’s a trend in New York right now where people are wearing merch: carrying totes from local delis, hardware stores or their favorite steakhouse,” said the designer Rachel Comey. (See: the reboot of “Gossip Girl” for pop culture proof.)
设计师雷切尔·科米(Rachel Comey)说：“现在纽约有一种把商品穿在身上的趋势：携带当地熟食店、五金店或他们最喜欢的牛排餐厅的环保袋。”（《绯闻女孩》的重启剧集足以提供流行文化上的证明。）
So far, so earth-friendly? Not exactly. It turns out the wholehearted embrace of cotton totes may actually have created a new problem.
那么，环保袋真的环保吗？不完全是。事实证明，全心全意地推行棉布环保袋实际上可能导致了一个新问题。
An organic cotton tote needs to be used 20,000 times to offset its overall impact of production, according to a 2018 study by the Ministry of Environment and Food of Denmark. That equates to daily use for 54 years — for just one bag. According to that metric, if all 25 of her totes were organic, Ms. Berry would have to live for more than a thousand years to offset her current arsenal. (The study has not been peer-reviewed.)
根据丹麦环境和食品部(Ministry of Environment and Food)2018年的一项研究，一个有机棉环保袋需要被使用2万次才能抵消生产它所产生的整体影响。这相当于每天都使用同一个袋子，用上54年。照这样计算，如果贝瑞的25个环保袋都是有机棉的，她将不得不活1000多年才能抵消她目前的环保袋库存带来的影响。（该研究尚未经过同行评审。）
第一，学习telegraph的用法。这个词作及物动词，表示to let people know what you intend to do without saying anything，流露，暴露〔意图〕，例：A slight movement of the hand telegraphed his intention to shoot. 手微微一动就暴露了他想要开枪的意图。
第二，学习lull的用法。这个词作可数名词，表示a short period of time when there is less activity or less noise than usual，〔活动或噪声的〕暂停，暂时平静期，其后接in，例：a brief lull in the conversation 谈话中短暂的沉寂
第三，学习arsenal的用法。这个词作可数名词，表示a large group of weapons that someone has，储备的大批武器，例：Britain’s nuclear arsenal 英国的核武器。此外，这个词还可以表示the equipment, methods etc that someone can use to help them achieve something，〔设备、方法等的〕宝库，珍藏，例：a software package that’s now part of our arsenal 现已成为我们法宝之一的一个软件包。
“Cotton is so water intensive,” said Travis Wagner, an environmental science professor at the University of Maine. And figuring out how to dispose of a tote in an environmentally low-impact way is not nearly as simple as people think.
“棉花非常耗水，”缅因大学(University of Maine)环境科学教授特拉维斯·瓦格纳(Travis Wagner)说。要弄清楚如何以对环境造成较小影响的方式丢弃环保袋，也并不像人们想象的那么简单。
You can’t, for example, just put a tote in a compost bin: Maxine Bédat, a director at the New Standard Institute, a nonprofit focused on fashion and sustainability, said she has “yet to find a municipal compost that will accept textiles.”
例如，你不能把环保袋就这样放入堆肥箱中：专注于时尚和可持续发展的非营利组织新标准研究所(New Standard Institute)的主管马克辛·贝达特(Maxine Bédat)说，她“尚未找到可以接受纺织品的城市堆肥”。
And only 15 percent of the 30 million tons of cotton produced every year actually makes its way to textile depositories.
每年生产的3000万吨棉花中，只有15%真正进入了纺织品仓库。
Even when a tote does make it to a treatment plant, most dyes used to print logos onto them are PVC-based and thus not recyclable; they’re “extremely difficult to break down chemically,” said Christopher Stanev, the co-founder of Evrnu, a Seattle-based textile recycling firm. Printed patterns have to be cut out of the cloth; Mr. Stanev estimates 10 to 15 percent of the cotton Evrnu receives is wasted this way.
即使环保袋真的被送到了处理厂，用于印制徽标的大多数染料也是基于PVC的，因此不可回收；位于西雅图的纺织品回收公司Evrnu的联合创始人克里斯托弗·斯塔内夫(Christopher Stanev)说，它们“极其难以通过化学方式分解”。印花图案必须从布上剪下来；斯塔内夫估计，Evrnu收到的棉花中有10%到15%因为这个原因被浪费。
第一，学习dispose of sth的用法。这个动词短语表示to get rid of something, especially something that is difficult to get rid of，清除，处理〔尤指难以清除的东西〕，例：an incinerator built to dispose of toxic waste 为处理有毒废料建造的一座焚化炉
第二，学习depository的用法。这个词作可数名词，表示a place where something can be safely kept，存放处；贮藏室，仓库。
At which point there is the issue of turning old cloth into new, which is almost as energy intensive as making it in the first place. “Textile’s biggest carbon footprint occurs at the mill,” Ms. Bédat said.
下一步的问题是，将旧布变成新布的过程几乎与最初的制作一样耗能。贝达特说：“纺织品最大的碳足迹发生在纺织厂。”
The cotton tote dilemma, said Laura Balmond, a project manager for the Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s Make Fashion Circular campaign, is “a really good example of unintended consequences of people trying to make positive choices, and not understanding the full landscape.”
艾伦·麦克阿瑟基金会(Ellen MacArthur Foundation)的“让时尚循环”(Make Fashion Circular)活动的项目经理劳拉·巴尔蒙德(Laura Balmond)表示，棉布环保袋的两难困境“是一个非常好的例子，说明人们试图做出积极的选择，却没有了解整体情况，这导致了意想不到的后果”。
Buffy Reid, of the British knitwear label &Daughter, halted production of her cotton bags in April this year; she’s planning to implement an on-site feature where customers can opt into receiving one. Though Aesop isn’t halting production, the brand is converting the composition of their bags to a 60-40 blend of recycled and organic cotton.
英国针织服装品牌&Daughter的巴菲·里德(Buffy Reid)在今年4月停止了棉布环保袋生产，她打算在门店实施一种政策，顾客需要主动提出才可以得到袋子。Aesop没有停产，不过品牌打算将袋子的成分改成60%回收棉和40%有机棉。“这会提高15%的成本，”桑托斯说，但是“用水可以减少70%到80%”。
Some brands are turning to other textile solutions. The British designer Ally Capellino recently swapped cotton for hemp, while Ms. Hindmarch introduced a new version of her original tote, this time made from recycled water bottles; Nordstrom also uses similar bags in its stores.
有的品牌在选择别的面料方案。英国设计师埃莉·卡佩里诺(Ally Capellino)近日把棉布改成了麻布，而欣德马奇推出了一种新版托特袋，使用回收水瓶制作；Nordstrom的门店里也有类似的袋子。
In the end, the simplest solution may be the most obvious. “Not every product needs a bag,” said Ms. Comey.
最简单的解决方案也是最显而易见的。“并非所有产品都需要一只袋子，”科米说。
第一，学习the political/social landscape的用法。这个词组表示the general situation in which a particular activity takes place，政治/社会形势，例：Recent electoral shocks have shaken the European political landscape. 最近的选举风波动摇了欧洲政坛格局。
第二，学习blend的用法。这个词作可数名词，表示a product such as tea, tobacco, or WHISKY that is a mixture of several different types，混合品[物]〔如茶、烟草、威士忌等〕。此外，这个词还可以表示a mixture of different things that combine together well，〔不同事物的〕融合，例：an excellent team, with a nice blend of experience and youthful enthusiasm 一支优秀的队伍，既有经验又有年轻人的热情
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